In part 1 I’ve bought hiFace Evo, and done thorough research; purchased all needed parts; also test schematic. In Part 2 I’ve done metal work and painting, this time I’ll do electronic part and completing
Polarity might be protected by diode, but I think it is not necessary, because charger has it already. I think this is not a big deal, since this is not commercial product. I use free program ExpressPCB to design PCB’s on various projects. Company then make you your own PCB by your design.
Prototyping PCB used instead of point to point wiring, since I wanted to make it look more neat and professional. Well… look further how I messed it up 🙂 Breadboard PCB with battery connector and outputs for switches, LEDs and connectors.
Now all connectors and switches in place. Battery is attached by hot glue gun. It will be still detachable with a little bit of good old violence, but I doubt it’s necessary because battery life exceed moral life of hiface converter many times. (I can always use it for another project)
Switches and mini-XLRs installed. Pin 2 and 3 used for DC.
I know, I know, looks like rat’s nest 🙂 But to my defense I have to say, that this is prototype. Would be pretty neat to have shorter wires. A bit excessive use of hot glue as well. Oh well… I like to have things bullet-proof.
Top side with engraved badge. Looks pretty fancy heh? Pretty heavy as well.
Front side. On top: Charge / operation switch, ON/OFF switch.
Bottom row: Charge / operation LED’s and two parallel power outputs. Two outputs are essential, just in case another device might come in the future.
Rear side, just one mini-XLR connecto for charging.
And this is final piece, sorry for a bit blurry pictures.
From another angle. Shiny black looks very nice with golden badge.
With custom made cable and mini-XLR connector. They are very high quality from Neutrik.
In operation with Hiface side by side. It is a bit bigger, but it doesn’t matter. Converter is behind DAC and Battery supply is on my top shelf. Works pretty well for me.
And converter on the top of PSU, so you can compare dimensions.
Was there really improvement compare to wall wart adapter?
Yes it was! Thanks to sleep button on my computer I’m able to switch supplies fairly quickly and compare sounds.
I would say, that first and only thing I have noticed, that there’s less sharpness = more “tuby” / pleasant analogue sound. It is more evident with hires material. Otherwise sound-stage, bass speed or anything else stayed same. It is DIGITAL, so don’t expect voodoo miracles.
Would I recommend it?
Hell yeah, for few quid you get yourself better sound, which is more noticeable than new pair of $2000 interconnect. Employing trained monkey I was able to switch PSU’s quickly and after 2-3 switches I get used to sound and was able to determine which is which by blind test.
I have to say, that this is very easy fun project for beginners who like to start with DIY. Could be pretty cheap if want to.
I’m able to build you one for cost of materials, if you are interested.